SI-board frage.. (Allgemein)

Als Antwort auf: Re: SI-board frage.. von Steffen am 27. März 2002 21:50:54:

Mein Dank ist groB.

Oh ja, wollte ich noch sagen: deine Entscheidung für TRX'en ist die einzige richtige; es gibt einfach kein Alternativ...

Hi Steffen, hier hab ich was kopiert von der US-E28 Seite:
(Link: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html)
Batterien sind NiCad AA zellen mit 1,2 V und 450 oder 600 mAh.
Viel Spass beim Basteln,
Uwe

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 12:56:41 EDT From: "Rick Kjeldsen" To: bmw@balltown.cma.com Subject: Changing service indicator light batteries - LONG
I've gotten a bunch of requests for this, so I'll post it.
This a quick summary of how to change the batteries for the service interval processor on E30 325's. I don't know how much is different with the 5/7 series, but I have a feeling is basically the same. You can also find an article on this is the November '91 Roundel, but what follows is from my experience.
The processor is on a board mounted in the instrument cluster. The batteries are soldered to the board, and a dealer wants ~$200 because he replaces the whole thing.
To replace the batteries, first remove the instrument cluster from the dash. On the E30, that means first removing the plastic trim below the cluster (at the bottom of the dash just above the steering column) That exposes the bottom screws for a trim piece that wraps around the cluster (couple of screws on the bottom, couple up under the "eyelid") That, in turn, exposes the screws for the cluster itself. There are two (I think) on the bottom, and two on black tabs that stick forward from the top of the cluster. Remove them and pull the cluster forward and out. Take a good look before you unplug the wiring, there are 4 or 5 plugs you have to take out. Once you've seen it, you won't have trouble getting it back correctly, they are color and shape coded pretty well.
Now set the cluster face down on a table (careful not to scratch the plastic face!) On the back, there are several (about 8-10) screws, most around the edge, with one or two in the middle. Take them out, and the whole back will come off, and you will be able to see the board (It's the only board in there, along the bottom and goes most of the way from one end to the other). Remove the board.. to do that, you have to remove two things. One is the engine code plug which plugs in to the board from the opposite side (the outside of the instrument cluster). It is a plastic rectangle about 1"x1"x.5". You have to press a tab to unclip it and pull it out. The other thing holding the board is a plastic piece that is held in by one screw. Take the board out, and you will see the batteries in the middle.
Mine were two NiCad AA cells with something like "Varta 500 RST" on them. These are top of the line NiCads. You can replace them with standard replacements (e.g. Radio Shack AA NiCads), or if you have a good electronics store nearby, order them from Varta. Either one will have the same voltage, so work the same, but the Varta's will have more capacity, so last longer when you pull out the car battery, and perhaps not die as soon either. (The Varta's have 600 mAmp hours capacity vs 450 for the Radio Shack AAs. Both are 1.2V).
A possible source of the nicads is
E.H. Yost & Company
7344 Tetiva Road
Sauk City, Wisconsin 53583
(608) 643-3194

Gehe Freitag die Batterien des SI-boards wechselen, denn Tacho und Temp sind kaput weil er (535i),denke ich, einem Jahr im Wald gestehen hat. Also jetzt ist meine Frage ob jewand zufällig weiB wieviel Ampere und Volt die Batterien sind. Weil 535 jetzt 200km weg ist (in the middle of nowhere)kann ich erst Freitag kucken aber ich will die jetzt schon kaufen also sag's mir. Danke, Steffen.

Als Antwort auf: Re: SI-board frage.. von Nico Hoffmann am 28. März 2002 09:38:59:

Now set the cluster face down on a table (careful not to scratch the plastic
face!) On the back, there are several (about 8-10) screws, most around the
edge, with one or two in the middle. Take them out, and the whole back will
come off, and you will be able to see the board (It's the only board in there,
along the bottom and goes most of the way from one end to the other).

Beim älteren Kombiinstrument sinds sogar zwei Platinen.

Mine were two NiCad AA cells with something like "Varta 500 RST" on them. These
are top of the line NiCads. You can replace them with standard replacements

Ja, das ist vollkommen unproblematisch. Man muß nur die Lötfahnen
passend machen.

(e.g. Radio Shack AA NiCads), or if you have a good electronics store nearby,
order them from Varta. Either one will have the same voltage, so work the same,
but the Varta's will have more capacity, so last longer when you pull out the
car battery, and perhaps not die as soon either. (The Varta's have 600 mAmp
hours capacity vs 450 for the Radio Shack AAs. Both are 1.2V).

Kriegt man heute ueberhaupt noch Akkus mit weniger als 600 mAh?

Gehe Freitag die Batterien des SI-boards wechselen, denn Tacho und Temp sind
kaput weil er (535i),denke ich, einem Jahr im Wald gestehen hat.

Der Akkutausch wiederbelebt nur die SI (wenn diese sonst keine
Defekte hat). Tacho und Teperaturanzeige sind eine völlig andere
Geschichte.

N.

Meinst du daB die Batterientausch meine Probleme mit der Tacho- und Temperaturanzeigen nicht lösen wird? Viele (auch BMW-Techniker) haben mich erzählt daB wenn die SI-Batterien nicht mehr funktionieren zuerst die Tacho flat geht, dann die Temp-Anzeige, dann die Benzin-usw.. Habe schon die Sender vom Diff. inspektiert, könnte noch die Widerstände beim Speedsensor messen aber weil das SI-board inkonsistent funktioniert wollte ich daB mall ausschlieBen. Ich muB aber sagen daB ich dieses Problem zum ersten Mal hab und deswegen wenig Käse davon gegessen habe; also was ist wohl die völlig andere Geschichte wovon du redest? Ich bin sehr interessiert. GruB, Steffen.